The GreenPan is one of the new generation of ceramic non-stick pans (like the Scanpan) that seem almost frictionless on first use; you pop in a rasher of bacon and it slides around like a pig in mud. The ceramic coating is PFOA-free, and the general build quality feels good: the handle fits solidly in your palm, the curved edges are just about perfect for tossing onions and associated vegetables.
At £40, it feels like an absolute steal... but there might be a problem. Some users report a decline in non-stickiness over time. Almost certainly, that's due to maintenance: GreenPan's website advises not to use extra virgin olive oil when cooking, as this can carbonise the surface, and metal utensils are also best avoided. However, the packaging on the product we tested doesn't mention this, which feels like an oversight, because many of us still cook with olive oil, even though we probably shouldn't.
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Which type of frying pan is the best for me?
Do you go iron, steel, or non-stick? We asked the experts for the virtues and vices of each...
Iron frying pans
Iron pans are formed by various different processes – they can be forged, spun, or cast – but they all tend to be expensive and require maintenance. Don't let that put you off: these are some of the most versatile, durable, and fun pieces of equipment you can own. The experts unanimously agreed that, while a cast iron frying pan isn't a one-size-fits-all option, it's unbeatable for certain tasks.
"I swear by a cast iron griddle pan for grilling meat and veggies," says Alexandra Dudley, author of sustainable eating cookbook Land & Sea. "Mine is a Le Creuset one and was my grandmother's. It has never been washed with soap, only washed and oiled. I think this is the magic to good griddle flavour."
So, aside from durability (many come with lifetime warranties; our favourite, the Solidteknics, is covered for a "multi-century" life), and a special flavour developed from years of use, why go for iron?
Jason Moran, owner of Season Cookshop, says the main benefits are as follows: you can expose cast iron to high heats; iron is excellent at retaining its heat; and you can get a degree of non-stick. "When you're frying eggs, if you crack three eggs they'll all cook at the same temperature rather than one bubbling away and one remaining lukewarm," Moran explains.
Cast iron pans require attention and care to remain well-seasoned. After washing, pans should be dried and a thin layer of oil applied. This prevents rust and helps build up a non-stick layer (the layer won't come immediately but, rather, will grow over time). When the non-stick layer builds up, you shouldn't have any trouble making foods that might stick, like scrambled eggs and omelettes, but you'll need a bit more oil than a non-stick for these tasks.
The good news is if your seasoning is ruined for whatever reason - such as scraping it off with soap - you can start the seasoning process again. The downside of constantly oiling is that you'll have a slightly greasy pan in your cupboard. "Not everyone likes the idea of putting a pan coated in oil in their designer kitchen," says Moran.
Cleaning a cast iron pan isn't as easy as a non-stick. Because of the patina that builds up, you shouldn't use detergent, which can strip away the hard-earned oils. Just wash with hot water, scrape off any excess food, and wipe clean with some kitchen towel. Dry the pan after washing, to prevent rusting, before re-applying a layer of oil.
Cast iron pans are great for gas hobs as they can withstand the high temperatures. They can also be bunged in the oven at full whack or used on barbecues. They are usually compatible with induction hobs, too.
Finally, it's worth noting that acidic food can corrode the non-stick surface, leading to another bout of re-seasoning. Anyone who uses their pans to cook a lot of tomato sauces are advised to look at other options - stainless steel works well.
Non-stick frying pans
Non-stick frying pans feature a layer of artificial or ceramic coating on the pan's surface that prevent foods from sticking. The best non-stick pans can reduce the amount of oil you use, making for a healthier meal. As with cast iron, the pans must be looked after carefully to remain effective.
Teflon, or PTFE, is what makes the surface slippery. PFOA, an acid used in the creation of PTFE, has been linked to cancer, which puts some people off, although it should be noted that the level of exposure is small. Tefal pans, one of the most recognisable on the high street, are PFOA-free, as are most of the better non-stick pans now.
Ceramic non-stick pans are PFOA- and PTFE-free. The ceramic layer usually coats an aluminium or stainless steel pan. Ceramic pans are often more heat resistant than Teflon, but there are several reports of short lifespans and the non-stick wearing off within a few years.
"Around 95pc of people want non-stick even cooking," Moran explains. "They're a staple pan." You can quickly and easily make your scrambled or fried eggs in the morning, sauté vegetables, or cook your whole fry up.
Good non-stick frying pans are incredibly easy to wash – food should slide off as you hand wash, and you can use a little washing up liquid if you need. Dishwashers should be avoided, as it will "fire a load of salt at the surface, which won't do the lifetime of the non-stick much good," says Moran.
Speaking of lifespan, a non-stick will never last as long as a cast iron or steel pan. If you're looking for a pan that will last forever, then best look elsewhere. But there are some simple measures to help get as many years as possible from a non-stick pan. Firstly, don't overheat it, especially if it's coated in Teflon. "Heat and plastic don't go well together," Moran explains. "The higher you crank up the heat, the faster it'll deteriorate." Some cheaper models are not oven-friendly; better pans will have a heat limit displayed in the product info. Moran expects a good, well-treated non-stick pan to last a decade.
Additionally, you should never use a metal utensil, as this scratches the surface, ruining the non-stick and probably sending you back to the shop to buy another pan (as your warranty is unlikely to cover scratches).
The benefit of non-stick pans is that they're quick and easy to produce, making them more affordable and a doddle to cook with; using less oil is an added bonus. Every amateur kitchen should have one – they make many basic tasks much simpler. But Moran recommends keeping a cast iron or stainless steel pan alongside, for when you need more heat. "If people bought both, we wouldn't have so many people bringing their frying pans back to the shops," he quips.
Stainless steel frying pans
"Stainless steel pans are the choice of the professional kitchen mainly because they're the most difficult to destroy," says Moran. You can bash them about with metal utensils, put them through the dishwasher, and it'll make no difference to the pan.
Why choose stainless steel? They're sturdy, durable, and cheaper than iron, for starters.. Stainless steel pans maintain their heat well, which results in even cooking. The iron in the steel makes them induction-compatible, too.
A stainless steel pan cannot be seasoned like a cast iron pan – it'll never be truly non-stick. This makes them unsuitable for certain tasks. While a professional chef can scramble an egg in a steel pan thanks to the Leidenfrost effect (cooking at an extremely precise temperature), "us mere mortals will find this very difficult, and will be faced with a pan of egg glue," Moran explains.
But fear not, because for some foods, steel frying pans are perfect. An oiled steak, for example, will adhere to the pan for around 30 seconds, creating a deep, caramelised colour you cannot find with non-stick. You can also flambé without fear of flames damaging the pan. "I'd recommend domestic cooks buy a steel pan as a secondary pan for these specialised uses," says Moran.
Stainless steel pans are cheaper than iron, yet still sturdy and durable, but not a good heat conductor, so the pan should feature a layer of copper or aluminium, otherwise it'll take time to heat up. The best I tried, the ProCook Elite Tri-Ply, has an aluminium core. Le Creuset's range of steel pans, which have an aluminium layer as well, are a little pricier but also designed to last.